Replacing a canopy top came with a fee of $500, so it made sense to do it ourselves. We were hoping that the time it took us to do it wouldn’t equal to 500 big ones. I hoped someone else besides us had done this already and paid society by putting it on the internet, and someone did! We combined their instructions (helpful) with the ones that came with the canopy (not as helpful) and started the mentally and physically challenging journey of putting on the new canopy. (This part was written by our wonderfully talented daughter, Katelyn!)
1988 Vanagon – (The directions that come with the canopy are for the baywindow - wooden tack strips)
Necessary tools (at least the ones we felt were necessary!): small hand held electric screwdriver, regular screwdrivers, tape measure, duct tape, small containers/ziplock bags to put screws in, metric wrenches, small tack hammer, pliers, permanent marker, at least 4 people to lift top off and put it back on.
1. We started by taking lots of pictures of how the original canopy was installed. I would definitely suggest this – they come in handy as you put the new canopy on. You can refer back to your pictures when you forget how something fit (I used it a lot!)
2. We unscrewed the bottom strips – we started at the front and then did the sides. To do the back I had to lay up on the bed. (That was fun on a hot day!). You can just unscrew all screws (place in a container or ziploc) and remove all metal strips (you can mark them on the back if you want to help when reinstalling them).
3. I took the 4 nuts off the bolts on the back, but left the bolts in to hold the top in place. ( 2 of the nuts are really hard to get to, so I needed to use the metric wrench)
4. I put the top down and unscrewed the top spring loaded rails on the front of the canopy. You need to secure the spring so that it doesn’t fly up – I used tie down straps to do this. After doing that, you can undo the nuts in the front.
5. This is when the four strong people come into play. You need to have an area prepared to put the top when you take it off. I used sawhorses with blankets placed on top. We carefully lifted it off and flipped it upside down on the sawhorses.
6. Then I did the same thing as in step 2, but this time it was a little easier. I unscrewed the screws off the strips. I also noticed there were little wood blocks where the canopy was attached with a small staple. I carefully took these out and saved them – they come in handy a little later. We kept the top in place, so that we could match up the new top – it gets a little confusing when it is upside down and this is a step you don’t want to mess up! Lay the new top over the old top so you can see how it should fit. Check windows (so you know the outside is the outside).
7. After we had the new top matched up and triple checked that it was correct, we slid out the old top.
8. We measured the top/front from seam to seam and made a little mark where the middle was. I used the staples (from step 6) to tack the canopy in place on the front (with the little wooden blocks). I then put these staples in the whole way around – I had to adjust a little and take some measurements as I did this.
10. I carefully rolled up the canopy and duct taped it in place so I didn’t have to worry about the canopy catching on something.
11. This time I had 4 people help to put the top back on my Westy. Actually 5 can be real helpful if you can get them. 4 take the top over and move along the side of the westy and 1 stays in the middle just to guide and watch that the top doesn't catch on anything.
12. Put all the bolts back in place so that the top is attached. If you slide bolts in the back you then can let "the help" go. Attach the spring arms and attach back bolts so that the top is now reattached.
13. Take the duct tape off the canopy so it drops down.
14. I found a piece of wood to prop in front of the canopy (see illustration) so that I could drop the canopy down – I had to make sure it was secure so the top didn’t fall on my head! It helps when you attach the metal strips to have just a little slack - not too much but not the whole way up tight.
15. I found this next part to be the most challenging. We measured the front again (just like in step 8) so we could find the middle. If you don’t tighten the strips down the whole way, it will help in case you have to adjust anything and make sure it’s not bunched up. Put in the rails and secure the screws. I would periodically pop up the top to make sure the sides are nice and smooth and nothing is pulling.
16. When you get to the corners, you’ll need to notch (sort of a v shape) – just a little at first (more if needed) to make the corners work. I used snips to do this. The corners sort of bunch a little and you want to make sure that the strip holds it down good - take you time at this part. Cut just a little at a time - you can always cut more but you can't go back. The back is the hardest – very time consuming because you are working in a very small area and those little screws will make you say some words.
**We put this canopy on over a period of 2 days – I would say a minimum of 8-10 hours. It’s very tedious work and you definitely want to take your time so you don’t jack your new $400 canopy.
**I would not do this on a hot day, unless you have an air conditioned area to install it in.
Disclaimer – This was us installing the top using the directions from the company and ones we found on the internet. The following directions worked for us, but we take no responsibility for any mistakes you may make in the installation. Feel free to email us with any questions – we’ll try to help!
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